In this tutorial I will provide what I think is one of the most important concepts to successfully run your own HDR photography in True Tones, using the function Details Enhancer Tone Mapping, standards, building on the common mistakes on key triggers the software under development.

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First, let’s recap what has already been described in the post visible to everyone, that is, I propose the individual shots the three images that we will take an example and then I drew up the final HDR, a shot at the seaside in Corsica, and one in the high mountains, the Alps, and one between the woods of Sassello, in Liguria in different light conditions.

And to clarify the alterations of scenery that would lead us astray in drawing one shot HDR in true tones, a

These are some examples of alterations of the natural scenery that would lead us astray in drawing one shot HDR in true tones with a little more information:

• The color balance, either because as I use it sometimes a DSLR last to receive the UV/infrared having removed the filter for use in astronomy, either because it trivially was set in night lights rather than natural or auto white balance, however, to obtain an HDR as natural as possible you need to intervene sooner, because photomatix has one trigger to vary the pitch and is too little for a recalibration of the colors is important.

• The overexposure, or burnt spots from excessive light, as in General should be avoided and HDR photography itself gives us the tools to mitigate them or even remove them in most cases, here’s an example:

• Incorrect Lighting Adjustment, and Excessive intensity of HDR lead to a more dramatic view but from the point of view of the nature of the wrong picture, altering the true ambient light, in this case as if he felt overwhelmed by a huge and menacing black cloud, that in fact there was, there was a passage of clouds, but distant and not so dramatically emphasized.

• It’s OK to be picky, but sometimes if the particular compromete the result, you can work around such a small imperfection (in this case a single leaf among the MOSS that is inexorably left over-exposed, and I draw inspiration for this trick but recovering, remember to adjust shooting settings of your shots in bracketing so that at least 1 of the 3 shots there are all the details not overexposed because there is no HDR taking if there is no signal in order to compose the detail in the overexposed area. To work as in this case the imperfection, however, comes in a tool like “Adobe Lightroom” presenting a quick tool that “clone” it hides imperfections like specks of dust on the sensor when you quit much the diaphragm, and thus removed the bloody leaf overexposed in the final image you will see at the end of this tutorial.

Now we see directly through the software Photomatix, we run it and made the first mouse click to load the set of three images on the software (by Load Bracketed Photos) will be proposed initially a screen that will lead to the application of Deghosting; that is the proper use allows us to choose one of three shots, and in case of moving subjects in the field photographed, avoiding to have something moved that distract the eye, and without affecting the image or having to incur in post-production in photo-retouching to eliminate where possible the imperfection.
This function is a quick example in these two images, before and after the deghosting; in the second image, the yellow flowers of dandelion in piano no longer have the choppy but also, flower points where were also overexposed, have regained a more natural light.

Set the initial information, for example if the multiple shots were performed with tripod or Freehand, etc, and calibrated the deghosting so you do not have motion blur in the image, you move on to the actual processing of three shots and the software will take a while depending on the speed of your computer and the “heaviness” of files provided, but which returns the processed image with standard settings (or last applied in prior preparation) and a series of ” preset “that however I would not consider, but which give no idea of the possible variations that tuning settings can produce.

Andes demonstrate the use of two triggers/settings that I consider very important and which affect the final result, that is, the intensity of HDR and subsequently changing the light and to do that I will show you the effect on two sample images in three versions which will highlight what are the differences and which is the most correct. the intensity of the hdr, it acts on the first triggher called “Streaght” and that the higher the value the more applies more strongly increasing dettaglio taking three shots at different EV, so the photo will have more or less all the details that you have in the dark and in the light, but we observe versions are available in image :

•  the intensity of the hdr, it acts on the first trigger proposed by software, top left, called in English “Streght”, the higher the value the more applies more strongly increasing dettaglio HDR by taking three shots at different exposures then the photo will have more or less all the details that you have in the dark and in the light , exaggerating with this trigger a surreal effect, but we observe versions are available in image:

As you can see, and as described above, in all both images in question, does not exceed the intensity makes it very natural, so the most appropriate setting for both images, for example, is the third.

Let us now see the other trigger that I wanted to look at:

• the point of light, in English “Lighting Adjustment”, by disabling Lighting Effect Mode allows us to adjust the trigger and depending on how located, allows you to make the most natural picture, look at the three proposed versions of the first series of sample images available:

Let’s look at another example but with different ambient light conditions to better understand how to properly implement the function:

the most correct in both cases is the third, and as you can see the application of light falling in other ways, it makes the picture more surreal or dramatic, and it is important not to underestimate this trigger because it is one of those that gives more naturalness to the photo, or allows those who want to donate more artistically “look different” to the image, but that’s not the topic of the post because , we treat of true tones hdr, hdr images the most natural possible.

For example, in the last image in this case ambient light conditions require a correction different from previous two images, in fact the correct picture is always the third but has better naturally not emphasizing the Lighting adjustment at most, which would darken too Brook, but keeping it at 60/70% does not affect the depth of field that then produces that flattening the image that makes it less natural and less pleasant

We are at the end of this post, just missing over seeing the two images tt-hdr finished with all the fixes, calibrations and improvements applied and published on our profile of 500px:

https://500px.com/photo/158619305

https://500px.com/photo/162620481

https://500px.com/photo/172730421/mountain-creek-water-moss-and-leaves-edit-v2-by-gianni-and-valentina

I would say that it’s all:) these are the key to not making mistakes and I hope help you produce beautiful realistic and natural processing in HDR, Hello!
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